Fashion on Fifth: Jean-eology

Published
Polaroid pictures of jeans layered on top of each other with the words “Fashion on Fifth” and “Jean-eology” patched on top.
Photos by Jane Lewis and graphic by Vidhi Kontham

This week’s Fashion on Fifth will cover denim from head-to-toe. Jeans are always in style, but their washes, rises, and fit fluctuate in popularity depending on fashion and pop culture trends. Triggered by Beyoncé’s “Cowboy Carter,” Lana Del Rey’s upcoming country album “Lasso,” and Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton Fall 2024 menswear collection, fashion is facing an almost overwhelming Western revival. Denim — a cowgirl staple, of course — is an accessible way for fashionistas to hop onto the trend without buying anything new because, let’s face it, we all have a few too many pairs of jeans. (I know, I know, they’re all so different). Fashion publications everywhere have followed suit with Forbes dubbing denim as “Cowboy Core” (cue my core-induced eye roll) and Business of Fashion reporting that US and UK retailers are selling 240% more denim shirts and cowboy boots than this time last year. Other than denim, cowboy hats and oversized belt buckles, Western-style boots and even bolo ties have already made their comeback according to Vogue. (And when Vogue speaks, I listen). All too often I’m left wondering where a classmate got their cute jeans, so today I answer that question along with seeing how these students have adapted the denim and Western wave.

Student stands in front of The New School University Center wearing a denim jacket, navy lace crop top, embroidered jean shorts, black cowboy boots, and a black denim bag.
Photo by Jane Lewis

Carolina Vogler she/her — @car0linaa.a

Second-year Parsons School of Design fashion design student

Carolina has paired her denim-on-denim fit with cowboy boots for the quintessential Western cool-girl statement. Her denim mantra? “I like it baggy.” But even cooler than her bagginess is the embroidery on her shorts and the pins and patches on her jacket. “I decorate myself. I love embroidery, and I love when there’s something unique about the denim,” she tells me while spinning around so I can inspect the patches she’s ironed onto the back. Her denim is all secondhand, so if you dig Carolina’s look, you might have to go hunting through some vintage spots to find your own version. Even her Juicy Couture bag is denim, and paired with her lace top, this ensemble is girly Western chic.

Student stands in front The New School University Center wearing a black suede fringe jacket, black shirt, black jeans, and black gingham ballet flats.
Photo by Jane Lewis

Clara Hunter she/her — @clara.hunter

First-year Parsons integrated design student

Look closely, because Clara’s black denim seamlessly blends into her suede fringe jacket, floral top, and studded leather belt. Her gingham ballet flats are the sweetest punctuation mark to her outfit. Clara transferred to Parsons from Loyola Marymount University in California where she and her roommate did a clothing swap before moving, resulting in these black jeans becoming hers. They’re a classic straight-leg fit with deep black, and her suede jacket is very cowgirl-turned-citygirl. Despite the almost monochromatic color scheme, this is a perfect fusion of edgy and girly resulting in just plain cool.

Student stands in front of The New School University Center wearing glasses, a white t-shirt, dark wash denim jacket, dark wash jeans, black platform boots, and a black Telfar tote bag.
Photo by Jane Lewis

Kirsten Baraoidan she/her — @kirstenbaraoidan 

Third-year Eugene Lang College of Liberal Arts politics student

A Fashion on Fifth denim issue would not be complete without one Canadian tuxedo, aka a denim top paired with denim pants. Kirsten’s top is almost the same wash as her bottoms, and the tiny difference in color is actually very pleasing to me. Sometimes monochrome denim can be overwhelming, so Kirsten offered visual relief with a black leather belt, Doc Martens, and Telfar tote, because all the coolest girls match their bag to their shoes. Her denim criteria is simple: it has to be 100% cotton, and her jeans must have a 32 inch inseam because tall girls deserve denim that fits too!

Student stands in front of The New School University Center wearing a black graphic t-shirt, brown leather jacket, light wash jeans, and brown boots.
Photo by Jane Lewis

Essence Campbell she/her — @essenceblei

Third-year Lang psychology student

Essence got her perfect baggy jeans from H&M and accessorized with a brown leather belt, brown leather jacket, and graphic tee. Her ensemble is perfect for the transitional weather and borders on the mantra of “dress like the man you want to attract.” Essence doesn’t like dyed denim; she prefers natural washes that compliment the other neutral colors in her wardrobe. It’s a very 1990s “cool dad” inspired outfit that brings retro into modern day. She looks classic, sleek, and comfortable. Denim and leather remains a cowgirl classic.

Student stands in front of The New School University Center wearing a striped graphic long sleeve, acid wash jeans, black Converse, and a brown messenger bag.
Photo by Jane Lewis

Germaen Nicolas he/him — @grrmaen

Second-year Parsons strategic design and management student

Germaen looks straight out of a video game with his slim fit jeans, graphic long sleeve, messenger bag, and classic Chuck Taylors. His headphones are probably blasting Bladee as he struts in his acid wash denim. And he says that if his jeans aren’t acid wash, they’re probably black and studded. It’s refreshing to see more color as the weather gets warmer, and the bright orange and red graphic on top of a classic striped long sleeve was a welcome shock to the system as I passed him on Fifth Avenue.

Student stands on Fifth Avenue wearing a white tank top, gray hoodie, brown leather belt, baggy jean shorts, graphic tights, and white sneakers.
Photo by Jane Lewis

Kayla Stephenson she/her — @kaylastephensonn

Third-year Parsons fashion systems student 

At first glance I thought that Kayla had the equivalent of a tattoo sleeve on her leg, but upon closer inspection they turned out to be a pair of tatted tights. This is an easy way to spice up a basic outfit since Kayla says she wears jeans 80% of the time. “I’ve been into low crotch and low waisted. They’re so classic.” The brown leather belt with oversized silver buckle feels very country chic but is balanced out by her casual sweatshirt and sneakers. Very cool, very casual, very effortless. 

Student stands in front of The New School University Center wearing a gray long sleeve t-shirt, baggy blue jeans, and brown platform Ugg boots.
Photo by Jane Lewis

Sydney Levy she/her — @sydneyl3vy

Third-year Parsons fashion systems student

Sydney looks comfy in a pair of denim that she altered herself. They were a pair of massive men’s jeans that she thrifted and upcycled. Her mantra while shopping for denim is thrifted, no stretch, oversized, and low waisted. As a fashion systems student, Sydney is learning about the systems in which fashion is manufactured. She tells me it takes almost two gallons of water to make one pair of jeans, and that denim dye is incredibly harmful to local waterways. This is why she only buys her jeans secondhand, otherwise it’s important to buy from a company that is transparent about how they make their jeans. She recommends AG Jeans if you insist on buying them new. 

Denim has achieved the American dream since its invention in 1873 by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis as workwear pants. Now it’s high fashion, high priced, and every type of clothing seems to have its own jean counterpart. If you want a pair of jeans and cowboy boots in one, Y/Project has the perfect pair for you. If you’re dying for a pair of sexy knee-high boots in a Western style, Ganni has a gorgeous option with a laughable price. Or combine Acne Studios denim loafers with a Chloé denim midi skirt, topped off with a Jacquemus denim bucket hat to create a look that’s worthy of Justin and Britney at the 2001 American Music Awards. And if you’re really lost on what to do with your jeans, just take a look at Diesel Fall 2022 where Glenn Martens pushed the limits of what I thought denim was capable of. Whatever your style, wash, or preferred fit, denim is dynamic. Unless you want to wear skinny jeans, to which I say, please for the love of God leave those in 2010.

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