Restaurant Diary is a biweekly series where food writer Clementine Hecker reviews restaurants that stand out among the millions of options in New York City’s restaurant scene.
On a recent Monday morning, I stopped by Claudia’s in Williamsburg, in need of something hearty and savory for breakfast. Claudia’s is a Guatemalan brunch spot in my regular breakfast rotation, perfect for when I don’t want to be rushed through the chaos of the Brooklyn brunch culture and can relax in a sun-drenched window with a comforting meal.
I tend to go on weekdays when I know it will be quiet, but that Monday, I completely forgot it was Presidents’ Day. So instead of being one of the only people dining, I was faced with weekend crowds. Luckily, I still got what I desperately needed that morning — to sit back and devour a bowl of creamy beans with runny egg yolks, saucy tomatoes and carnitas wrapped in tamales, and a refreshing horchata.
Claudia’s is a small family-owned restaurant serving traditional Guatemalan cuisine on a quiet part of Bushwick Avenue. The street doesn’t have much foot traffic and functions more as a connecting vein triangulated by the restaurant hotspots of Bedford Avenue, McCarren Park, and the Morgan Avenue L station. It isn’t often at risk of booked reservations and long lines like some neighboring breakfast places. While for some New Yorkers that might read as a warning sign given there seems to be an obsession with restaurants with massive wait times, I don’t trust the line as a signifier of quality. I have lined up for promises like New York’s best cookie or a mind-blowing bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich — illusions that are fueled by internet hype and often shattered when you get to the front.
As far as I can tell, Claudia’s hasn’t been scouted by the short form, “you have to try this spot in Williamsburg” content machine… at least not yet. It doesn’t quite fit into the archetype for that trendy exposure based on looks. But despite its slightly mismatched oddball decor that mixes a modernized cocktail bar with traditional Guatemalan motifs, it’s a sweet space — and more than that, the gorgeous food is worthy of recognition.
The brunch menu is egg-focused, for which I have a deep respect. Eleven of the 14 entrees contain eggs, including traditional Guatemalan dishes like Huevos Ahogados ($18), Tamal Con Frijoles ($16), and the Traditional Guatemalan Breakfast ($17). The first consists of two eggs submerged in a warm tomato salsa, thick bacon, beans, and tortillas on the side. It is a bit of a messy dish, but it warms you up as you scoop up the sauce in the warm tortillas. The egg and acidic tomato combination is classic for a savory breakfast, and the black beans that come with most of the dishes are surprisingly sweet and stewed.
Photo by Clementine Hecker
My unlikely favorite is the only salad on the menu, which consists of mixed greens, avocado, onion, chips, and garbanzo beans ($17). Fried garbanzo beans are one of those ingredients that change a salad dramatically. They act as a protein on this salad and somehow make the dish feel more suited for breakfast. Adding carnitas to the dish for $7 extra takes it to a pretty unreasonable price for a salad, but sometimes the splurge is worth it; the soft pork and the crispy fresh greens balance each other well.
The carnitas were a little bland in the Tamal Con Frijoles ($16), but they’re quite tender and flavorful in the Brunch Carnitas Bowl ($19). This dish is a monster to get down for one person but is great to share. It is a massive nacho-style pile of potatoes, pulled pork, cheese, and barbacoa salsa that almost incapacitated me the first time I ordered it.
When it comes to drinks and dinner, Claudia’s is open Thursday through Sunday until 9:30, but they don’t have a full dinner menu online. Brunch cocktails are available along with a few options of aguas frescas (amarind, horchata, jamaica) and coffee, though it is not always on the menu.
The brunch menu isn’t huge, but it covers a lot of bases. Sides include plantains and crispy yucca fries, and you can even order “Panqueques” or french toast if you are craving something sweet — though I would not skip out on the savory options.
Photo by Clementine Hecker
The servers at Claudia’s are extremely friendly, especially during slower hours. Even though they can get a bit forgetful when the place is full, it’s a small operation and you feel taken care of nonetheless. Selfishly, I’m happy Claudia’s is still shielded from the brunch panic that has taken hold in Williamsburg, and I can still stroll in and have the delicious menu all to myself. Despite this, I think everyone should have the privilege of tasting their food.
Hopefully Claudia’s will always keep its charm so in warm weather I can sit outside, take my time with a coffee, and share the Garbanzo Salad with a friend.
Claudia’s is located at 39 Bushwick Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11211.